The Designer of the Topless Swimsuit

I grew up in the US in the 60’s and 70’s when both women’s and men’s fashions took a bold move from frump to mod. It was a time when uninhibited fashion designers such as Rudi Gernreich showed over-the-top colors, overstated geometric patterns, pseudo industrial fabrics like plastic, vinyl, and metallic knits, topless swimsuits and the thong. I personally had several jumbo herringbone skirts with matching “news boy” hats, a gold metallic dress (which I only wore to special events like a sweet sixteen luncheon), animal print leggings, and, of course mini skirts; although the latter may be attributed to Mary Quant. My husband-to-be was still growing up in England where Beatles fat mod ties, wide lapels, tapered waist velvet jackets, bell bottoms and platform heeled shoes (yes, for gentlemen) were at the height of fashion.

This hub is a tribute to Rudi Gernreich, one of my favorite fashion icons, creator of the "thong", the Topless bathing suit and certainly one of the most influential, forward thinking fashion designers of the "swinging" 60's and 70's.

Rudi came to the United States in 1938 to escape Nazi terrorism in Austria.  After a brief career as a dancer with the Lester Horton dance company he became a costumer designer, working for the legendary Edith Head. Rudi had no trouble making friends in the fashion industry. He was witty, outspoken and often quoted. His groundbreaking philosophy, “how we dress is closely linked to the way we live”, would remain one of his creative mantras. By the time he left costume design, Rudi had already established his own style of futuristic clothing.

The generation of the 60’s and 70’s was historically iconoclastic, rebellious and free-thinking, where women burned their bra’s and men let their lovely tresses grow long. Gernreich being a child of the times foresaw the homogenization of clothing styles. He must have smelled the smoke when he invented the "no bra-bra" - a wispy, transparent piece of fabric that offered women freedom of movement without the restricting stays and under-wires of foundation.

He also unveiled the Unisex Look at the 1970 Japanese Expo. Gernreich was quoted as saying, “it’s inevitable that mens' and womens' clothes will become alike. I believe the similarity will make their anatomical and spiritual differences more evident.” Rudi was the first to design Unisex designer jeans and men’s underwear for women. He blurred the boundaries of the sexes with his “androgynous look”, epitomized by the costumes he created for the sci-fi TV show "Space 1999". Far out!

Rudi Gernreich wasn’t all about fashion androgyny and comfort of style. He was about freedom and fun! His wild color combinations and eye-popping patterns now typify the era.

Here’s my mom's genuine Rudi Gernreich gown. She purchased this stunning deep purple knit gown, enhanced with gold lamé polka dots at one of the first designer discount stores – the original “Lohemann’s”. I loved when Mom wore that dress, and as fate would have it, I am now the proud owner. Mom’s still kicking, but she doesn’t fit into it anymore as it’s become far too long.

Gernreich is perhaps best known for having invented the first topless bathing suit - the Monokini. This is the tamest picture I could find, although if you care to have a look, William Claxton's photo of Peggy Moffitt was the original full-frontal version. At the time (and to this day, mind you), women of all sizes throughout Europe (even in stuffy old Britain), were shedding their bathing suit tops - so Rudi invented a topless swimsuit for American women. Needless to say, they didn’t go for it. If they did, they were arrested.

Unfazed, Rudi also invented the Pubikini. It was a super low cut thong that exposed a peek of pubic hair. In the adverts, Rudi, stayed true to form by dyeing the model’s pubes puce green. (sorry couldn’t find the photo).

Rudi Gernreich’s prediction that “fashion will go out of fashion” may very well be taking shape in the new millennium as dress codes in the workplace and in fine eating establishments become less rigorous. But one thing's for sure, his legendary style lives on and his most popular invention, the Thong, is showing no sign of extinction.

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